Ferry Building Plaza and Marketplace, Ferry Building, San Francisco

To spend time in the refurbished Ferry Building along San Francisco’s Embarcadero provides one with the opportunity to experience a glorious array of artisan food while soaking in the  original architecture of the building itself, which has been carefully maintained during its rebirth. 

Unlike some farmer’s markets where vendors and booths are jammed together almost guaranteeing a bout with claustrophobia, The Ferry Marketplace (more info) is spacious in its layout, with a wide central isle.  Whether you’re there to grab a few prepared items for lunch or the makings for a gourmet dinner, you’re almost sure to strike gold. 

Looking for that perfect cut of grass-fed beef for dinner guests or want to start your own herb garden at home - if it’s related to cooking and food, you’re likely to find it. One merchant specializes exclusively in live, fresh picked and dried mushrooms of every variety imaginable.

For me, the true delight was building my own picnic lunch as I walked through the marketplace.  First stop was the Cowgirl Creamery Artisan Cheese Shop, where they sell their own award winning cheeses made in the Point Reyes area, as well as an amazing variety of cheeses from around the world.  I selected a hunk of St. George cheese from the Matos Cheese Factory in Sonoma County. Next was a ciabatta roll from the Acme Bakery. Next was some wine to wash it down. The Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant has a nice wine tasting bar and other tables inside and in front of the shop. They offer a small, but nicely chosen selection of wines by the glass, and customers are encouraged to bring in food from the marketplace to eat with their wine, which is exactly what I did.  Both the 2002 Tamalpais Rocky Creek Vineyard Zin and the 2002 Saracena Winery “Old Soul Red” were great quaffers.

I finished off a perfect afternoon by stopping by Recchiuti Chocolatiers to snag one of their decadent bittersweet chocolate brownies.

While there are vendors selling fresh produce inside the Ferry Building, the real produce show takes place in front of the building on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday during the Spring/Summer months. Regardless of the time of year you visit plan to bring an empty stomach and plenty of shopping bags.  

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Kokkari  Estiatorio, 200 Jackson Street, San Francisco, CA

415-981-0983

San Francisco is a great city in which to own a restaurant - if you’re good.  While the competition is stiff, it is a town known for dining out.  And so on a Thursday night we found ourselves at a crowded Kokkari, in the heart of the Financial District.  As we are seated we are struck by the energy level in the room, and decide that the resulting noise level falls just on the positive side. The bar that runs nearly the length of one wall, is standing room only. On the opposite side of the room, in front of a stone hearth, stands a sturdy table, one side piled high with loaves of rustic looking bread.  On the other end, sits a large urn filled with briny olives, which are being ladled into small bowls, and brought to guest tables.

Kokkari describes its cuisine as “Contemporary Hellenic”, or updated Greek. This theme begins with the wine list which is divided into “Old World” and “New World” whites and reds.  We selected an ’02 Antinori Bolgheri, an Italian white wine, which proved an outstanding match with our entrée selections.

But first we had to sample some appetizers.  The spanakopita, generously filled with spinach, cheeses and fresh leeks, had the requisite light and flakey filo dough exterior.  The lamb rib lets, were greasy, garlicky and lightly crisp outside and moist next to the bone.  We could have made a meal of them and not been unhappy.

A whole Sea Bass which was served with an olive oil, lemon, garlic and oregano drizzle, was delicate with a mild salty, smoky flavor.  The side dish of winter greens (kale, escarole, spinach and chard) were tart and tasty.  A classic Mousaka was served in an individual tureen.  A thick layer of Béchamel on top was followed by layers of eggplant and thick, spicy ground lamb.  Some of the very best Mousaka I’ve had in years.

Our dessert of custard-filled filo with sides of grilled figs and house-made vanilla ice cream, made for a wonderful end to our “contemporary Hellenic” meal, and a mental note to return soon.   

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Buena Vista Cafe, 2765 Hyde St.,  San Francisco, CA

415-474-5044

No visit to San Francisco is complete without a ride on the famed San Francisco cable cars,  and when you take the Powell and Hyde line towards Fisherman’s Wharf you will be delivered to the birthplace of the Irish coffee, the Buena Vista Café. Opened from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. to 2 a.m. on weekends, The Buena Vista Café is a great place to have a lovely breakfast (my favorites are the Crab Benedict – crab cakes smothered in Chiron sauce); a delicious lunch salad or sandwich or perhaps you may try one of the Café’s entrees.  I like the Cable Car Meatloaf as well as the Spinach Mushroom Ravioli. For me the main reason I go to the Buena Vista, is the tasty Irish Coffee accompanied by a slice of Grand Marnier cheesecake. The Buena Vista Café is always packed but I find the buzz of so many people bellying up to the bar for Jack Koeppler’s and Stan Delaplane’s coffee and Irish whiskey concoction is charming and for me part of the San Francisco experience.

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Farallon Restaurant, 450 Post St.,  San Francisco, CA

415-956-6969

Just one half block from Union Square in San Francisco, stepping into The Farallon is like stepping into “20,000 Leagues Under The Sea”.  From the blown glass jellyfish lighting hanging from the ceiling, to the deep blue of the carpet, the stage is set for chef Mark Franz’s wonderful “Coastal Cuisine”.  The menu changes daily depending on what seafood is fresh and in season.  The pricing is not for the faint of heart.  Dinner entrees are in the high 20 to 30 dollar range, while lunch entrees are much more affordable at less than 20 dollars.  This is a restaurant experience and is priced as such.  There are a few items on the menu for those who don’t enjoy seafood, and they are just as flavorful and creative as the seafood dishes that have made Farallon a destination for San Francisco “foodies”.  Local luminaries such as former mayor Willie Brown, and Sharon Stone, when she was residing in Marin County, have been known to regularly enjoy the classic nautically themed tile work in the dining room, and the sharp service in addition to the creative, unusual menu and high quality of the food.  Farallon is definitely the kind of place you plan to dine in advance.  Quite often, reservations are hard to get, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.  For small parties of two or three people, it is possible to get a table without a reservation.  Be prepared to sit at the bar and chat up the host or hostess, and just possibly the sea of diners will part to provide an empty table.  Make sure you try the appetizers, especially if mussels are being offered.  If you want to recreate the Farallon experience at home, there is a Farallon cookbook available.  Jellyfish lights are not included.

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The Stinking Rose, 325 Columbus Ave.,  San Francisco, CA

415-PU-1-ROSE

If you love garlic, this is the place for you! The Stinking Rose is a wonderful, colorful and taste satisfying experience.  The dining rooms have an eclectic feel to them.  We sat looking out onto Columbus Avenue and enjoyed dining while watching the hustle and bustle of the city. The menu is fun and flavorful. Whether you order the 40 clove garlic chicken roasted on the bone or the Italian Garlic meatloaf  with pan gravy (2 of my fave’s!) dining at the Stinking Rose will not only be satisfying and delicious but you will want to return again and again. Of course no visit to this fine establishment is complete  without "the dessert of tutti desserts" – Gilroy’s Garlic Ice Cream with caramel mole sauce!

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Scoma's, Pier 47 on Al Scoma Way,  San Francisco, CA

800-644-5852

Fisherman’s Wharf will surely entice you with the delicious aromas coming from the eateries from one end to the other. There certainly is many fine establishments to choose from. However, if you can only pick one my #1 choice has to be Scoma’s Restaurant in Pier 47.  As you walk down (or drive – they have valet parking) Al Scoma Way begin to imagine fresh, abundant plates of seafood that will excite every taste bud in your mouth. May I suggest the Dungeness Crab and Shrimp Louis it is the best I have ever had and the full portion is simply outrageous!   Scoma’s most popular dish is their Shellfish sauté sec, you will not be disappointed with the flavors of this dish.  For something a little different, ask about the Risotto del Giorno it changes everyday and it my just be what your looking for.  Visit Scoma’s you will not be disappointed.

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